An entirely different kind of beach trip

Forget bikinis and beach umbrellas. Cannon Beach is a sweater-and-coffee kind of coast — a four-mile stretch of hard-packed sand backed by misty headlands, where you walk for miles and see more bald eagles than people. Towering above it all is Haystack Rock, a 235-foot basalt monolith covered in tufted puffins and tide-pool life.

The town itself is a postcard of cedar-shingled galleries, bookstores, and bakeries. It's two hours from Portland, but feels like a different country.

Best time to visit

September and October offer the most reliable sunshine and warmest temperatures (still only 65°F — pack layers). July and August are popular but often foggy in the mornings. Winter is gloriously dramatic, with storm-watching at its peak in January and February.

What to do

Time low tide and walk to Haystack Rock to explore the marine garden — sea stars, anemones, and (in summer) nesting puffins. Hike Ecola State Park for the view used in the opening of 'The Goonies'. Drive 30 minutes south to Oswald West State Park for old-growth rainforest and the secret cove at Short Sand Beach.

Warm up afterward at Sleepy Monk Coffee, then dinner at Newmans at 988 — a Mediterranean gem in an unassuming cottage.

Where to stay

Stephanie Inn for an oceanfront splurge with panoramic Haystack views. The Ocean Lodge is family-friendly with a great fire pit. Tolovana Inn (just south) is more affordable. Vacation rentals along Hemlock Street put you walking distance from town and beach.

Local tips

Always check the tide chart — half the magic happens at low tide. Bring a real rain jacket (not an umbrella, the wind will destroy it). Don't climb on Haystack Rock — it's a protected wildlife refuge. And visit the bakery early; the marionberry scones at Sea Level Bakery sell out fast.